Buddhist temple

Lunch was served in a large cheerful circular room with tables round the outside near the windows. We were the only guests which was a little disconcerting. Lunch was a plate of meat in an excellent and piquant sauce. We thought the meat was beef. 

After lunch we set off to visit a Buddhist temple. This was perhaps 7 km distant along dreadful dirt roads. You might walk there and back in a short day from this ger camp - it would make an outstanding short day's hillwalking. We stopped along the way at Turtle Rock, an immense landmark resembling said animal. 

We had to walk in to the temple up stairs, past hundreds of numbered slogans from Buddhism. The view opened out as we climbed, and was pretty spectacular. Half way up there was a pagoda with a big wheel. The pilgrim spins the wheel; the number at which it stops represents the slogan or proverb that the pilgrim has to meditate upon. 

The temple was quite remarkable. It was brightly coloured in primary shades with orange dominant. The patterns and detail in the painting, the use of shades of colour, the woodwork and the embroidery were nothing less than visually stunning, a real treat for the eyes. The ceiling was padded in gold and deep red material; gloriously worked renditions of Buddhist saints marched around the walls. Carpets were heaped on the floor. I did not feel it appropriate to take pictures, though I did feel it was not different in opulence from the great cathedrals of Western Europe.

Of Buddhism itself I have less good to say: whilst Buddhists revere all life, I'm unimpressed with the Mongolian stewardship of the earth and life of this national park. There is litter everywhere - bottles, tinfoil, plastic bags. The dirt roads are ugly scars across the landscape, and the ger camps are obstrusive, resembling, to me, tank farms. 

After the temple we retreated to the ger camp for a rest, stopping along the way for an extended visit to the Turtle Rock.

At the ger, a fire was lit, which quickly warmed the tent. I went for a walk to the top of the nearest hill, which was interesting, as it afforded good views away into slightly more unspoiled terrain. But it was cold up there in just a cotton shirt, and when I felt it starting to rain, I beat a retreat back to the ger.
After supper, it started raining more seriously - though rain always sounds serious  from inside a tent. Darkness fell quickly and early, catching us whilst we were out for a brief walk in the gloaming. It was full night by 8.30 p.m.